American Terroir: Savoring the Flavors of Our Woods, Waters, and Fields Review

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American Terroir: Savoring the Flavors of Our Woods, Waters, and Fields ReviewThis is a fascinating book about culinary specialties produced in specific and often small geographic regions. Terroir is often associated with vineyards that produce wine that has a distinct terroir ("taste of the earth"). Rowan Jacobsen takes the concept to its natural conclusion and shares with readers terriors ranging from New England apples and cider to Yukon River salmon.
While most chapters are devoted to specialties of American regions, Jacobsen goes across the northern border to Prince Edward Island (potatoes) and Quebec (forest foraging). Jumping across the southern border we learn about special coffee (Panama), avocados, and chocolate (Mexico). Here in the U.S. Jacobsen presents maple syrup (Vermont), varietal honeys (various places), Totten Inlet oysters (Washington), wines (California), and washed-rind cheese (Vermont).
Each culinary gem has its own chapter. The writing is especially engaging and informative. The first chapter is about producing maple syrup in Vermont. The author is able to describe in wonderful and amazing detail how the sap develops in the maple tree. Producing syrup from sap is a long and arduous process. Chapters end with recipes and resources that are quite useful. Midway through the book is a collection of color photos from the places discussed.
Anyone interested in the nuances of excellent food sources will enjoy this book. Be warned, it will make you hungry. The writing is fully engaging and the book ends too soon.
Unfortunately there is one serious omission. The book has no index. Where is Peet's Coffee? Yes, it's in the coffee chapter, but where? How about the fiddleheads, where are they discussed? Quite frankly, in a book like this the lack of index is inexcusable.American Terroir: Savoring the Flavors of Our Woods, Waters, and Fields Overview

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The Big Oyster: History on the Half Shell Review

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The Big Oyster: History on the Half Shell ReviewBIG OYSTER is Kurlansky's latest food-themed history (following his previous COD and SALT). It differs from his previous books in several ways, but still serves up a tasty morsel.
Although the title and cover suggest that the book is about oysters, it's actually a history of New York city--the choices and, in particular, the (hindsight-only) mistakes in handling the environment that transformed Manhattan island and its surroundings from pastoral beauty to modern Gotham. Today, New York is the very totem, the very image of "city". This is how it got that way--through the eyes of the oyster.
As a book, it's an interesting read. Kurlansky's scholarship and research are excellent and we get telling anecdotes and solid detail throughout. The titular bivalve, though, sometimes goes missing from sections or has only a peripheral connection to much of the text. At the end the author notes that the book was adapted from Sunday supplement articles and it feels stretched. That's too bad, because it's still a good read and a pleasant diversion. (Don't think I'll try the 17th Century oyster recipes though...)The Big Oyster: History on the Half Shell Overview

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Slow Food Guide to Chicago (Slow Food Guide to Chicago: Restaurants, Markets, Bars) Review

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Slow Food Guide to Chicago (Slow Food Guide to Chicago: Restaurants, Markets, Bars) ReviewThe reviews are a few years out of date and some of the restaurants no longer exist. Much of the space dedicated to expensive restaurants where I was looking for more reasonably-priced places.Slow Food Guide to Chicago (Slow Food Guide to Chicago: Restaurants, Markets, Bars) Overview

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