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Righteous Porkchop: Finding a Life and Good Food Beyond Factory Farms ReviewAfter reading Nicolette Hahn Niman's reporting on conditions under which pigs, chickens, dairy cows and other cattle, and even farmed fish are kept before ending up on our dinner tables, one can hardly be other than in fervent accord with her statement above. Niman faithfully describes the artificial, often terribly cramped containment pens or cages that crowd thousands of pigs, cattle, or laying hens together. Often the animals never see the outdoors, never breathe anything but the stink of their own waste, never get to raise their own offspring, and never even get a meal that isn't laced heavily with harmful drugs and blood and excrement from other animals. And sometimes they die barbarically.Raising stock this way is excused by agribusiness as necessary to maximize economies of scale and profits. But the author of Righteous Porkchop: Finding a Life and Good Food Beyond Factory Farms systematically shoots down these flimsy justifications. For example, she points to studies that show the high investments needed to undertake and maintain these huge confinement facilities generally lead to a revolving debt operation, whereas farmers with a more natural and smaller operation can outperform on a dollar in / dollar out basis. Also, the pollution produced per animal is far greater in confinement plants (and they are plants, rather than farms). Animal manure from thousands of head run off into water channels, liquefy, and pool into big lagoons. This form of animal waste gives off ammonia, methane, and other gases that shouldn't be in our air. Not to mention -- again -- the horrific odor that wafts for miles.
Niman furnishes as many facts as possible about the widespread conditions in industrial animal production. But RIGHTEOUS PORKCHOP isn't simply a dry recitation of statistics. Niman is telling her own story: how, as a fledgling lawyer, she worked for Bobby Kennedy Jr. to gather first-hand evidence for environmental lawsuits against confinement agriculture for polluting waterways with liquefied waste. How in the course of things, she met rancher and entrepreneur Bill Niman and in time married him. How she moved from New York to northern California and learned the ins and outs of ranching. How she and her husband do their utmost to let their cattle and other animals live as natural a life as possible. How she searches for outlets where she can buy food for the Niman table that is grown or raised on family farms where "organic" and "natural" aren't just buzzwords.
Niman presents a well-researched case for the pressing need to change the way our meat supply is managed from insemination to slaughter. She emphasizes that a failure to do so will endanger the future survival of these animals and the whole food chain including us. But she is realistic too and suggests that the best action each individual can take is to stop buying from these meat/poultry/dairy/fish producers. Perhaps her most practical chapter is "Finding the Right Foods," in which she gives specific advice and information about how to find healthful pork, beef, milk, cheese, fish, etc. from farms that treat their animals well.
RIGHTEOUS PORKCHOP (by the way, amusingly, the title doesn't merely refer to pigs) is a book everyone should read and then use as a springboard for concrete action. Domesticated animals are not people, but that doesn't excuse cruelty or soullessness toward them. (4.5 stars)
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